Traveling China 2008 – Look back at an adventure, Part II

By Nancy Dorrans

Our 12-day adventure traveling China continued. If you read my column last month, you might remember that our first evening in Beijing ended at a brothel. You’ll be relieved to know that Diana and I made a safe exit. We retreated to our hotel and began adjusting as best we could to the 13-hour time difference.  

To the Great Wall, Sacred Way, and Beijing Opera

The next morning, we set out to climb a small section of the Great Wall. Our guides led us to the Mutianyu section, hoping to avoid the crowds. Of course, since it was school vacation, the Wall was teeming with groups of teenage students.

Diana and I met up with a group of young boys. They brought laughter, peace signs, and poses along the historic landmark. This was one of my all-time favorite travel memories!

Our next stop was the Beijing Enamel Factory. We watched artisans meticulously bend copper wire into elaborate patterns, adorning everything from massive vases to ornate jewelry. This ancient art, known as Cloisonné, involves using fine brushes or droppers to fill the copper designs with powdered glass enamel.

It requires immense concentration and a very steady hand. The items are then fired multiple times and polished to “reveal the brilliance.” I was mesmerized!

From there, we were led to the Sacred Way, the path leading to the remnants of the Ming Tombs. This is the burial site for thirteen emperors of the Ming Dynasty.

Designed according to Feng Shui principles, the “Way” is lined with 36 massive stone statues of officials and animals. It is also known as the “Road Leading to Heaven.” The elephant was definitely my favorite!

We ended the day with dinner at the Beijing Opera, where waiters brought a steady stream of hot dishes to our table’s Lazy Susan. I only wish I could have known what I was eating. The spinning table, jet lag, and a screeching Chinese opera singer didn’t mix… Just saying.

Authentic Beijing

Was it Day 5 already? Time for a final whirlwind morning in Beijing. After our guide “Kevin” pointed out the 2008 Summer Olympic stadium, we toured a silk carpet factory, hopped onto a rickshaw, and wandered down an ancient alleyway located in an old residential neighborhood.

We walked past a group of men playing a lively game of Mahjong outside an open-air market. The market was full of locals and smiling vendors, their stands packed with unidentifiable fruits, mounds of spices, exotic mushrooms, and unique seafood.

And then, we were led down a narrow alley and were invited into the kitchen of a local family who treated us to a delicious lunch and wonderful conversation. This was the authentic Beijing I had been hoping to experience.

Terracotta Army of Xi’an

In Xian we met the farmer that discovered the Xi’an Terracotta Army of statues while digging a well in 1974. The warriors protected the first emperor of China, Qin Shi Huang, in his afterlife.

Estimates are the three pits containing the Terracotta Army hold more than 8,000 soldiers, 130 chariots with 520 horses, and 150 cavalry horses! Literally breathtaking!

We followed a quick visit to the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda, a Buddhist landmark dating back to 652 AD, with a Tang Dynasty dinner and another colorful cultural show. 

Three Nights on the Yangtze with Helen Keller

Next day we flew to Chongqing to board the classy Victoria Anne for our three-night Yangtze River cruise. Before we set sail, we stopped at a Jade museum, another local market where there was a pink cat in the hair salon.

Onto the Chongqing Zoo to see the giant pandas. A few were lazily chomping on bamboo leaves, and one was up a tree scratching their back on a high branch. My favorites were the much smaller and more curious red pandas.

Upon boarding our ship, a sweet young cabin steward greeted us each by name and showed us to our room. Her name? Helen Keller. We knew that the Chinese hospitality workers chose English names for simplicity, like our guide Kevin. But when I asked why she chose that name, her face lit up.

She had been inspired by the real Helen Keller’s life and resilience. I asked for her Chinese name, which quickly slipped my mind, but I’ll never forget this young woman’s spirit. What a treasure, highlighting the human connections that make travel so special.

The rest of the crew were just as delightful as Helen and treated us to a fashion show and talent show. It was wonderful to see their personalities and musical talents shine through.

From the Yangtze to Shanghai

The next few days are a blur. We sailed along the Yangtze in awe of the cliffs and learned about the villagers that were displaced by the Three Gorges Dam. We took a riverboat ride through the Lesser Gorges of the Daning River and then sailed through the locks. 

The captain hosted a farewell dinner. Then we were off to Shanghai with its futuristic skyscrapers, an amazing acrobatic show, shopping malls, a noodle making demonstration…

As always, there’s much more to the story. If you’re intrigued, reach out.