The Portland Palate
By James Fereira
A new restaurant in the West End impressed James Fereira so much that he had to take up his pen again and interview the owners.
Something unexpected happened this past spring. After learning that a new restaurant in the West End was slated to open in the former Aurora Provisions space, I got excited about it.
By last December, the prospect of writing another pandemic-infused food review – in an already jammed Shangri-La of struggling but precious restaurants that weren’t safe to visit anyhow – had left me feeling underwhelmed. I had run out of material. There was nothing new or clever to say. It wasn’t fun anymore. I was ready to retire The Portland Palate.
Then Ruby’s came along. “Perhaps Tony will let me write a special review?” I supposed. Being magnanimous, though a questionable judge of talent, he obliged.
DISCOVERING RUBY’S WEST END
Fate found friend Fran and I headed-out for a walk one day, masks-in-hand. We were feeling a bit peckish and noticed that Ruby’s door and windows were invitingly open – the smell of good food wafting. Of course, we had no choice but to go in. Drawn to a remote table (my first attempt at indoor dining since Covid’s debut), Fran ordered the Buffalo chicken livers, which she loved. And I had yummy biscuits and gravy topped with an egg over-easy.
Because one visit wasn’t enough, friend Alex and I returned two weeks later. Our cucumber ceviche and watermelon/cuke salads were refreshing and flavorful. We also enjoyed a croque-madame and local grits entree, both again topped with egg (which invariably seems to exalt so many dishes).
Inspired by the lovely setting of linen table coverings and glinting multifarious chinaware, I chose to put my food snob indifference aside. Introduction apprised a conversation with the woman whose smile had welcomed us and who happened to be co-owner Corrinna Stum. I was impressed by her warmth, genuine interest in us, and with how she had reinvented the space. It was then and there that I decided Ruby’s deserved some attention. We scheduled a time when she and chef/co-owner and partner Matt Stum could meet.
CORRINNA & MATT
Corrinna explained that sight-unseen, and concluding from research and intuition, they chose Portland and the West End in an act of faith. Moving from Indianapolis in the summer of 2020, they opened Ruby’s, their first restaurant, this past April. Combined, they possess over 30 years of experience in the restaurant industry: Matt as Chef and Corrinna in project management, restaurant openings, and consulting.
Their love of food began even earlier. Growing up in midwestern and southern families, respectively – where cooking, food and fellowship formed a perfect trifecta. The couple literally met over food, or as Corrinna describes it, “he made this excellent beet risotto, and it caught my eye…. then he caught my eye.”
It seems a connection born and sustained in a mutual ardor for nourishing cuisine and community. The eponymous Ruby herself, who was Matt’s late grandmother, would certainly have approved.
‘WE LOVE COLLABORATION’
Once in Portland, the duo hit the ground running, engaging immediately with West End residents, businesses, and other area restauranteurs. They gauged that making this local investment would be critical to their success, or as Corrinna humbly explained, “We love collaboration.” Their vision is to “create an environment of comfort with good service, over a good meal, where guests would want to return.”
The pair also hope to fill the void left by Aurora Provision’s exit, though embossed with their own stamp. Their business is an evolving enterprise with many moving parts, all centered around community connection.
In addition to memorabilia passed down from generations within Matt and Corrinna’s own families, much of Ruby’s decor has been contributed by Portlanders via a NextDoor.com campaign. People looking to part with gently used plates, bowls, cutlery, glasses, mugs, tablecloths, and linen napkins generously gifted them along with their stories. These have added a rich personalization to Ruby’s in what is now a unique narrative and visual experience… and they are still accepting donations. Even the restroom, sporting eco-friendly cloth hand towels, impresses.
Corrinna said she’s been delighted by the exceptional greeting they’ve received from the community, especially as they are newcomers “from away.”
“People have even volunteered to bus tables!” she opined excitedly.
A current endeavor for the Stums has been the launching of an investment effort through MainVest. Funds raised will be used to expand capacity, specifically for outdoor seating in a garden-style patio out back. This would be especially propitious due to the ongoing Covid pandemic. To learn more, visit www.mainvest.com/b/rubys-west-end-portland.
RUBY’S WEST END HOURS & OFFERINGS
64 Pine St., Portland
207-956-7916
www.rubyswestend.com
-Photo by Corrinna Stum
Ruby’s West End is open for brunch six days per week, and they recently added dinner service on Thursdays through Sundays. On Tuesdays, they’re closed. In early September Ruby’s expects to start serving alcohol. They offer take-out, prepared meal, and “grab n’ go” programs, and a changing theme Sunday Supper event, “Where the neighborhood meets,” (think: spaghetti dinner night).
Ruby’s provides coffee/pastry/dessert catering, and they offer floral services in conjunction with locally-owned Clo Floral. Additionally, they collaborate with other Maine companies including Time & Tide, Rwanda Bean, Speckled Ax, GoGoRefill, Lionshare Bread, Car Hop, Monstera Vintage, and Soap Bubble Laundromat.
They are currently seeking to fill positions in the kitchen. Ruby’s supports and applies Restaurant Wage Reform principles in their hiring practices. Staff are provided better pay, hours, and benefits, including a 20% built-in gratuity which is shared among all hourly employees.
Ruby’s is wheelchair-accessible and has complimentary Wi-Fi. It’s a short walk from Longfellow Square. They share limited parking with Chaval, located next door, and on-street parking is available. Using public transportation? Take the METRO #8 bus with a stop at the juncture of Pine, Lewis, and Emery Streets.
Finally, while wrapping-up my interview I asked the question: “Is there anything else you’d like for the community and WEN readers to know about you or your business?”
Corrinna’s reply was simply, “Yes. We say thank you.”
James Fereira is a West End resident, freelance writer, and sometimes WEN contributor. He continues to question authority and can be reached at ThePortlandPalate@gmail.com.