Layne’s Wine Gig Presents
OUR GRAND TOUR
This year, being our 30th wedding anniversary, we planned, saved up, and did tons of homework to revisit our original honeymoon destination of Quebec City. Personally, Judy and I have always preferred to travel by ourselves. This can have both advantages as well as disadvantages.
PLANNING
You simply must plan more while traveling yourselves. So, reserve your AirBnB well in advance. We highly recommend the Historic Maison James Thompson in Vieux Quebec. Breakfast is included, along with a great, strong morning wake-up coffee. Please be aware that this is a very old building (by North American standards) and there are stairs to navigate no matter what. But you are within the fortification walls of the old city (Upper Town or Haute Ville) and are within short walking distance of many must-see sites and varied restaurants (only a couple blocks from the Chateau Frontenac), as well as a short Uber drive from your place to many interesting neighborhoods.
Up next, ask yourself, is the car in perfect working order? And don’t forget to plan your restroom stops and gas stops along the way. The Inn by the River in the Forks is a great spot to stop halfway for a great meal, a well-needed stretch, and views of rafters on the Kennebec River from the porch.
Meanwhile, Jackman is your last hope for a full-service convenience store and gas station. During our stay, gas in Quebec was nearly $6.99 per gallon Canadian or about $5 per gallon in our dollars.
RESTAURANTS
This is our idea of a tour. We are not necessarily sporty people, mountain climbers, or outdoorsy types. However, a restaurant tour requires a ton of research, and if you intend to go to the more interesting ones, then YOU MUST book a reservation. Remember, Quebec is every bit as much a “foodie” town as Portland (maybe even more so). The locals know the best spots, and in some of our stops there wasn’t a word of English spoken (except by the waitstaff).
THE CONTINENTAL
Your essential anniversary destination. Anthony Bourdain’s photo and caption is on their brochure “with dishes that you haven’t seen like forever.” As old school France as can be imagined with the place ablaze with duck and beef carved at tableside.
There we are, Judy and I, alongside the flaming tableside duck with the attentive waiters and captains in their white, impeccable, starched outfits.
I always look up wine lists online beforehand. It’s a lifelong habit. Call and ask for the Office Manager and she will e-mail it to you. And here’s a hint, their Alsace Gewurztraminer is perfect with the duck a l’orange and it is a deal!
RESTAURANT LE PARLEMENTAIRE
Yes, it is in the stately Capital National Assembly building for all of Canada to enjoy. Don’t forget your reservation AND your I.D. There is some serious airport like security going on here.
Still, this is a can’t miss lunch reservation. We had the prix fixe menu with the freshest halibut and tastiest medallions of elk imaginable, alongside locally recommended Quebec wines that were paired up beautifully. The dining room alone is a view worth the experience.
Due note, the Canadian people, our hosts, were beyond gracious and welcoming. It was a glorious week free of our excessive political blather.
BUVETTE SCOTT
A little off the beaten path, this local resto-eatery in Quebec City offered up a host of small bites and reasonably priced “orange wines“.
Sitta Maceration from Rias Baixa’s in Galicia, Spain, was dry with candied orange peel, a different look for the Alberino grape. Unbelievable with the imaginative lobster dish!
L’ECHAUDE (MICHELIN STAR) & THE HOLY GRAIL
On every trip we try to find several wines that are not only difficult to find but occasionally are once in a lifetime experiences.
I make little Post-it notes of the ten or so most interesting wines to be found on each list. There must be backups. Note, these wines may only exist as one or two bottles ever on restaurants’ lists and the online wine lists are often not up to date.
Very sleek, modern French with a clientele to match. The list is loaded with THE greatest names of Burgundy, my all-time hot button. All the locals along with us were enjoying their scallops, frogs’ legs, and deliriously great cod.
This is when a great sommelier is necessary. For the “how do I cut through the plethora of riches and choose the wine that I probably won’t ever see again?” question.
Their sommelier said, “I got just three bottles of this wine. One will go into my own cellar and the other two are here for you.”
“Raraavis” Rare bird, 2018, by Raul Perez.
A little-known grape, the Albarin, from the Finca de Pedro Marcos vineyard, consisting of 50-year-old vines along 2.5 acres located in Villamanan, northwest Spain. Aged for five years in 500-liter, very old, neutral barrels under flor yeast.
It has the zest of an older Sherry combined with the elegance of wine made from grapes grown in a traditional heritage vineyard. We rarely in our lives witness wines identical to the ancients at work producing their masterpieces. This is one.
MELBA (MICHELIN STAR)
There are two wine lists here in this very sleek Paris style restaurant in the Saint-Sauveur neighborhood of Quebec City. There is the one that appears automatically on your table.
“Oh my God, none of these wines appear on my Post-it note!” We came here for a reason. We were hell bent on having the wine that we sneaked into our wedding reception.
We married just outside of Waterville and had a traditional reception at a local restaurant 30 years ago. But I wanted to toast Judy with something special that was cool and wonderful and that we have rarely seen since. The great list is online, and they bring a copy out for the fanatics who request it (Phew!).
Maison Valette Macon Villages ’20,’21,’22,’23 In Magnum. A Multi Vintage Field Blend.
Now there are Macon’s and there are Macon’s, that famous spot in Southern Burgundy in France. You can head off to the grocery store right now and pick an ordinary one up. But Valette is special with liveliness, individuality, and an ethereal personality with persistence.
I guess that is what it takes to enjoy 30 years of marriage. Yes, we shared a toast with the wonderful staff. Love to Quebec City, the food, the wine, and the people.
Layne’s Wine Gigs are live wine tastings with yours truly. Now for groups or individuals. Name the place, choose the topic. I’ll do the rest. Email: Lvwitherell@gmail.com.
