Winter Wonder in Quebec
By Nancy Dorrans
There’s always excitement, trepidation, and a bit of adrenaline that pumps through your veins when you’re getting ready for an adventure. That’s how it is for me anyway, especially in the winter. What will the weather bring and what should I bring? Did I cover all the bases? What am I forgetting? Add the logistical coordination of planning the adventure for over sixty people and those feelings multiply.
Winter is an incredible experience when you’re in a place that thrives within it. For the Québécois, winter is a way of life. In fact, a plethora of opportunities are offered in their region to help them and those of us that venture north to enjoy the outdoors.
Every year, Quebec City hosts the world’s largest winter carnival, Carnaval de Québec, in North America’s oldest and most European city. Their outdoor festival celebrates winter between late January and mid-February. “For a period of 10 days, the city is transformed into a snow festival with many decorations, ice sculptures and lights. On the agenda: several activity sites for young and old, a parade of allegorical floats and musical evenings.”
Carnaval de Québec
Once again, I’ve organized a motor coach tour to Quebec City to attend their carnival and celebrate the season and Winter Wonder with Bon Homme and his friends! I’ve organized this adventure at least eight times! And last year, while we had little traffic and no messy weather to contend with, it was the coldest by far! Do you know that -40 degrees in Fahrenheit is the same as -40 in Celsius? We found out. It is really cold.
Each year my tour includes a visit and self-guided tour of the Hotel de Glace, a hotel that is made entirely of snow and ice! Our self-guided tour usually finishes at the Ice Bar with a delicious cocktail served in a glass made of ice. Last year, it was so cold and windy that we had little time to explore. When I checked in, the manager told us to hurry to the Ice Bar first because the alcohol and mixers were freezing as they were being poured. It was really cold.
Do you dare spend the night?
Also in and around the Hotel de Glace is the beautiful Grand Hall, a small chapel, an ice slide, and a labyrinth of rooms and suites – if you dare to spend the night. Each year there is a different theme, and the rooms are all decorated by a team of artists that carve elaborate murals into the snow walls of each room. One year the theme was nature, another year was all about the circus. If you’ve never been, the Hotel de Glace is an experience not to be missed!
We always stay at the Chateau Frontenac, an iconic and historic castle hotel that stands on a bluff overlooking Old Quebec and the St. Lawrence River. During World War II, the Château served as the venue for the Quebec Conferences, where Allied leaders such as Winston Churchill and Franklin D. Roosevelt met to discuss the war. Taking a guided tour while there is well worth it!
On my tour, meals are “on your own” so that everyone can venture out and discover the hidden cafes, bistros, and many fine dining restaurants throughout the city. Quebecois dishes are delicious, and you may even try the specialties of coq au vin, bouillabaisse, and escargot. Or stick with a tourtière (meat pie), pouding chômeur (poor man’s pudding), some french onion soup, and poutine.
My Quebec Winter Routine
I do enjoy poutine and have my own routine while in Quebec City. For dinner at least once, I’ll visit Bistro St-Malo, a small intimate restaurant in Old Quebec. I order their Cassoulet: a rich, slow-cooked stew made of haricot beans, sausage, pork, mutton, and preserved goose, aromatically spiced with garlic and herbs.
On Saturday morning I’ll meet whoever is interested in joining me and head to Le Cochon Dingue (The Crazy Pig) for breakfast. Maybe this year I’ll try their Charlevoix Plate featuring black pudding with hollandaise sauce au gratin, topped with a fried egg; apple and bacon caramel sauce french toast; served with fried potatoes with onions.
After breakfast we take the Lévis ferry across the icy St. Lawrence and enjoy a stunning view of our Chateau before heading up to find Bon Homme and wind through the Carnival events.
This year my tour sold-out almost before school started. Next year we’ll do it again – usually the first weekend in February. Stay in touch. I’ll look forward to traveling with you someday!
Winter Wonder Haiku
Embracing the snow
That brings the cold quiet joy
On these winter days
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