Layne’s Wine Gig Presents
WASHINGTON WINE
By Layne V. Witherell
No, this isn’t about the place where freshly pressed suits, mirror shined shoes, and way too much television and smartphone screen time rule the day. This is about the other Washington – the state that is the second largest wine producer in the U.S. with 32,000 acres of grapes. And how Washington became the #2 wind producing state without all the fuss.
Chateau St. Michelle Pinot Gris, Columbia Valley, 2023, $13.
The “How it all began” is a story semi-shrouded in myth. Phillip Morris in Richmond, Virginia (You know- the cigarette people.) decided in the early 1970’s after the surgeon general practically put a skull and crossbones on those packs of Marlboro’s that they needed to “move beyond smoking.”
A long-lost board member had no doubt seen the state of Washington with its cheap land and fledgling wine business. Some one convinced Phillip Morris to open their corporate wallet wide and create a fine chateau and a reasonably priced flagship wine – a Riesling.
Their Pinot Gris is good, not great. Frankly, it is a better grape for Oregon. But it is winter hardy, can be placed in an irrigated vineyard, and is popular alongside their signature seafood dishes. Under their aggressive sales and vineyard planting program, Washington rose from 2.5 million gallons in 1987 to 6 million in 1994.
That was the good news as Ste. Michelle had catapulted to 75% of the state’s wine market share and had added other winery purchases to their “strand of pearls,” according to former CEO Ted Baseler. The weird news is that recently their parent company suffered huge financial losses and decided to sell out to a hedge fund for $1.3 billion. Said hedge fund, Sycamore Partners, has its own “strand of pearls” with Walgreen’s, Staples, Lane Bryant, Belk, and Hot Topic.
Where we all go from here is anyone’s guess. Life beyond the grocery store might include the lingerie department or computer station. Stay tuned. If that grandfatherly aristocrat can be sold, then everyone can, too.
Owen Roe Corvidae “Wise Guy” Sauvignon Blanc, Yakima Valley, 2023, $13.
You will find in Washington State lots of “nom de plume” winery names. The O’Neill family (mom, dad, and six kids) named it after a 1649 ancestor’s estate letter. They farm 58 acres in the Yakama Valley, a region in south central Washington comprising 53,000 total acres.
Their work is what I call “New World Inventive” from the little bird label to the outrageously delicious interpretation of the Sauvignon Blanc grape – Washington State style. Loaded with flavors of citrus, grass, and lime (leave the grapefruit flavors to New Zealand) it is an ideal accompaniment to a dinner or brunch salade Nicoise.
It is common in Washington to farm using a method they refer to as “sharecropping”. No, there are no slaves involved. They simply pay for half the crop up front to determine the quality of the fruit at final harvest as opposed to the older method based on yield alone. A better-quality system.
I went out and bought more bottles just to test my initial thoughts. Spot on stuff.
A Quick Word
The family sold the winery to a dynamic company called Vintage Wine Estates, owners of B.R.Cohn, Clos Pegase, Gerard, Swanson, and other prestigious wineries. Their stock on the NYSE plummeted leaving them over $300 million in debt after bankruptcy. The good folks at Owen Roe either bought their winery back or it was purchased at auction depending on your source and have continued to make remarkable, delicious, reasonably priced wines.
Charles K. Smith Velvet Devil Merlot, 2023, Washington State, $13.
In the staid, corporate world that was 1970’s to 1990’s Washington wine, a figure emerged… Had he not existed someone would have had to invent him. He was the Van-Halen-era-Sammy-Hagar-doppelganger and rockstar booking impresario, Charles K. Smith.
Legend has it he started out by making a few barrels of Syrah from older vineyards in Walla Walla. Sold them out of his pickup truck and was blessed with the mojo of a genius. He was a self-taught winemaker, who went on to sell his brands for $180 million dollars.
The Velvet Devil is a play on the famed movie Sideways. You remember, the quirky buddy/road movie ode to the Pinot Noir grape that whacked the Merlot grape with Paul Giamatti’s famous line, “I am NOT drinking any f&#*%ing merlot!” After a long painful absence, the grape is once more coming back.
Blueberries, cherries, and plums are the wine’s signature flavors together with smooth, soft silk. Perfect with lighter meat and pasta dishes, even salmon.
The spirit of Charles K. Smith is still alive even though the wine brand has been sold to the Ackley Investment Group, a direct mail printing company that is locally based in Seattle. They have been purchasing their own “strand of winery pearls” in the Northwest that includes Hogue Cellars, Montinore, Columbia, and Betz Family Wine. The theme today seems to be moving from one big player to lots of golden opportunity purchases. Owners and managers don’t wear suits, just Pendletons (the Carhartt’s of the Pacific Northwest).
Cedar And Salmon Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla, 2021 $23.
From the famed Horse Heaven Hills Vineyard, and owned by 3Badge Corporation, this is a classic Washington blend of 85% Cabernet, 8% Malbec, and 7% Merlot. Beautiful and harmonious. Washington is warmer in climate than Oregon, but cooler than California. It really resembles Bordeaux, an ideal place for both Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to thrive – most times together as a blend.
Delicious both in its blend and moderate use of oak (15% new French and 15% new American) as seasoning. Mushroom dishes, cassoulets, lamb, or steak are great.
August Sebastiani (4th generation) has created the 3Badge Corporation named after the original Sonoma firehouse where his family served as volunteer firefighters. What makes it intriguing to me is that they are negociants in the classic sense. They are intrigued by Mescal (inventing their own brand Bozal), craft beer, and experimenting with cocktail mixers… developing wines all the while.
August Sebastiani
I had the great honor of meeting and interviewing the original August Sebastiani in Sonoma in the late 1970’s.
“…August (now 62 years old) together with sons, sons in law, and a staff that has been with him for ages, runs the winery. I have read and seen pictures of August for years but now I meet him face to face. He wears striped overalls, a white shirt and straw hat – his perpetual uniform… We had dinner with August in a small Italian restaurant in Sonoma. Steaks and bottles of Barbera. At one point of the meal the feisty old man took a long green onion and dipped it into his wine and ate it. Fabulous experience.”
August was a pioneer, creating popularly priced, affordable Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. But he really liked his Barbera.
The original winery was sold in 2008 to entrepreneur Bill Foley. Foley is in the process of acquiring and building his own “strand of pearls.” His includes, among others, Chalone, Firestone, Foley Estates, Silverado Vineyards, Acrobat, Chalk Hill, Chateau St. Jean, and Ferrari-Carano.
The West is all about change. Excuse me while I relax, have a glass of wine, and digest all this while lounging in my old faded Pendelton’s.
LAYNE’S WINE GIGS
Individually tailored gigs for small or large groups. Pick the place and the theme and I will help select the wines and provide the fun. E-mail me at lvwitherell@gmail.com.
