Part 2
Not JUST Another Safari
Uganda South of the Equator
By Nancy Dorrans
We stepped over the equator into the southern hemisphere to get to our Bush Lodge at the northern part of Queen Elizabeth National Park (QENP).
Here, the Kazinga Channel links Lake George and Lake Edward and offered more clues as to who it was that colonized Uganda. On our afternoon boat cruise on the channel we spotted a lone hyena on its way… paying no attention to the many pods of hippos, birds, cape buffalo, and elephants that watched him or her stroll along. Across the channel we had an up close (maybe too close) encounter with one approximately 12-foot crocodile. Our tour operator Alex said, “It’s JUST a crocodile.” Oy!
In the Kasenyi Plains sector of QENP, the “big cats” eluded us. We did see lots of colorful birds and a few forest hogs before arriving at Ishasha Wilderness Lodge. Later, overlooking a vast savannah we sipped our “sundowner” drinks as a large herd of elephants, complete with several very tiny babes, moved silently far across in the landscape… Just breathtaking!
On June 14th we acknowledged and appreciated all of you who participated in the peaceful protests around America and beyond. On this morning on our way from QENP to Bwindi Impenetrable National Park we finally spotted a mother lioness and her two cubs resting in a tree right beside the road. Just an amazing sight! I watched the movie “Born Free” on the flight home…
CTPH Gorilla Conservation Camp
Another long and bumpy “African Massage” ride to CTPH Gorilla Conservation Camp in Bwindi reunited me with Dr. Gladys Kalema-Zikusoka and her husband Lawrence! (See my June article). Their organization Conservation Through Public Health (CTPH.org) helps the Mountain Gorilla families and their neighbors coexist and thrive! The organization also offers the neighboring community members education on proper hygiene practices and family planning. Everyone benefits!
A 2025 Gorilla census is currently being conducted… From April to October teams are out in the park collecting and counting DNA samples. In 2018 there were 1063 individuals across the Bwindi-Sarambwe ecosystem and the Virunga Massif (Rwanda, Uganda, and DR Congo). Dr. Gladys and others believe the gorilla numbers are on the rise! We will know more this fall.
June 15th was the day we had been waiting for! This morning we headed out on a once in a lifetime gorilla trekking experience accompanied by Dr Gladys from CTPH Gorilla Conservation Camp! “In the legacy of the late Dian Fossey, Dr Gladys Kalema-Zikusoka has become one of the leading conservationists and scientists working to save the critically endangered mountain gorillas of East Africa.”
The trek to visit a gorilla family can take up to six hours, but this day we were fortunate! Our gorilla family (named Binyindo Group) consisted of 1 silverback male Kavuyo, 4 adult females and one juvenile male. And they were nearby, only a 20 minute hike. This was a truly magical hour. It is difficult for me to describe the experience in words. I felt very safe and happy. Maybe it is because we share over 98% of our DNA with these magnificent beings.
Not Just Another Safari
The day continued back at the Gorilla Conservation Camp, where we were warmly invited to join a lively baptism celebration. Dr. Gladys and her husband Lawrence, serving as the young boy’s godparents, hosted a delicious lunch featuring local dishes, including roast goat. Hours of speeches and generous gifts for the boy and his family followed, with a cow, a goat, a chicken, and money being offered and a festive cake-cutting ceremony.
A true highlight was simply spending time with the children – laughing, singing songs, and taking photos. We wrapped up this most amazing day by the campfire, chatting with Dr. Gladys, Lawrence, and our new friends.
We bid farewell to our dear friends at CTPH Gorilla Conservation Camp, promising to stay in touch. Unwinding and relaxing, we then spent two nights in Jinja at the unique and delightful Lemala Wildwaters Lodge on an island surrounded by the mighty raging Nile!
One last loop around Entebbe with a rainy morning visit to the Botanical Gardens and long goodbye to Lawrence at Gorilla Conservation Coffee Cafe! Huge thank you Alex Guma of Gorilla Walking Safaris!
This was not JUST another safari… This was the most powerful and amazing adventure!
Don’t delay, NOW is Someday!
If you’d like to learn more about an adventure in Uganda, please reach out. I’ll be happy to share more of my stories and photos with you. And if you’d like to go, I’ll be happy to help you get there!
Read Part 1 here, “Uganda – Not JUST Another Safari”.
