Layne’s Wine Gig
THREE WINE LISTS
By Layne V. Witherell
A wine list can be as small as a single postcard folded into a plastic holder on a restaurant table. Or it could be the Bern’s Tampa Steakhouse magnum opus weighing in at ten plus pounds, containing over three thousand listings, complete with interviews, charts, photos, and maps galore… and everything in between. I was fortunate to purchase one of these rarities at Rabelais Rare Books in Biddeford. Truly, there is something out there for everyone.
Good lists should correspond to food pairings, customer preferences, and locale. These three lists, in their own way are different styles that do just that. Each reflect their locales yet are perfect for their own distinctly different vibes.
EUROCENTRIC: Wayside Tavern in The Francis Hotel, 747 Congress St., Portland
This is the kind of place that those of us in the West End have been secretly praying for. It is us. We travel and have seen and tasted the world. To some it may seem exotic, but to us the wines and foods are both comfortable and exciting.
An advantage over past places housed in this location is that the owners have placed the tables at a reasonable distance (even in this small space), so that your neighbor isn’t sitting on your lap, making for a much better vibe. Such thought progresses to food, service, and wine as well.
Arneis, Negro Angelo, Piedmont, $13.00 glass.
Piedmont in Northern Italy is all about Barolo, Barbaresco, Barbera – stout reds with beef. Arneis is the standout dry white grape of the region with hints of wildflowers, pear, and green apple.
Goodbye Pinot Grigio, hello Arneis.
Do not leave here without having it alongside the Bangs Island Mussels at $19.00. An ethereal local treat complete with green garlic toast to sop up the sauce.
Gamay, Jean Sambardier, Beaujolais Villages, $12.00 glass.
There is Beaujolais, and there is this guy. Ancient vines count, and he has them. A delicious and mouth filling red. Have it with their Country Pate at $9.00 and you will think that you are there. France comes to the West End.
Pais, Cacaque Maravilla “Pipeno”, Chile, $13.00 glass.
You gotta go way back with this one. Pais was originally the much maligned “Mission” grape of early California, planted by the padres. “When doubly distilled, it was as strong as the reverend father’s faith.” It has been reimagined in Chile as a light, aperitif styled white. Have it with their Fried Sunchokes, rosemary, parmesan, $10.00. Sunchokes were as forgotten as the Pais grape. This is the rediscovery of both.
If you turn over the list and delve into bottles, there are some well-chosen rarities. Invite two friends to share some of these brilliant selections.
Aubrey 1st. Cru Champagne, $94.00 bottle.
A smallish family run operation. Champagne is the wine blenders paradise: 45% Pinot Meunier (a lighter cousin of Pinot Noir), 25% Pinot Noir (a pricey grape in Champagne), and 25% Chardonnay for freshness. There is Champagne, and there is everything else.
2018 Gruner Veltliner, F.X. Pichler, Wachau, Austria $92.00 bottle.
Vibrant minerals, the standard bearer of both Gruner, the grape, and Austria, the place. What I like best about Pichler is that they occupy that gold medal spot on the podium that is reserved for the likes of Chateau Lafite and Romanee Conti without having to take out a bank loan to afford a bottle.
Pinot Noir, Anthill Farms, Sonoma Coast, 2019, $68.00 bottle.
The wine that I need to explore with friends for our next visit is this Pinot Noir from Anthill Farms, California. Small, elusive… “I really didn’t know if the name (of our winery) was really great or really dumb,” said their founder. I like his style. We will probably pair it with their roast chicken at $21.00. This is what I call exploring in the West End.
BIOCENTRIC: Cocktail Mary, 229 Congress St. Portland
They are just on the cusp of Washington Avenue, the land of spontaneous fermentation. The wine list is brilliant, in a very different way. There are no wines by the glass, except for the occasional 187 ml bottle that sneaks in. You can legally take home an opened bottle in your trunk. It pays to order bottles here as he seeks out the cool and unusual… and prices them right.
Kabinett Riesling, Steinmetz, Germany, 1000ml, $30.00 bottle.
When was the last time that you saw six outstanding glasses at $5.00 per glass? We just don’t see or don’t drink enough Riesling. There should be an award just for doing this. Kabinett is next to the driest level of German wines.
Morphos Rose, Oyster River, Maine, $28.00 bottle.
This wine should have its own float and parade down Washington Avenue waving a funk flag. Pair it up with the Grand Aioli, fish, smoked mussels, etc. Lovely in its own fizzy, funky adorable way.
Egri Bikavar, Bull’s Blood, Hungary, $34.00 bottle.
The name comes from the 1552 siege of Eger Castle where 1,000 locals triumphed over 100,000 Ottoman soldiers. The label featured a bold red design of a rearing bull. This was the wine that allowed every semi-broke college student in the 70’s to trek on through the four plus year slog that is called getting a degree. Today’s version is a kinder, gentler taste of Hungary’s esteemed red.
Victoria Eighteen Twenty, Maine Rhubarb Wine, $36.00 bottle.
For those out-of-town guests who say, “I didn’t know Maine made wine?” Victoria Eighteen Twenty Maine Rhubarb Wine is your ticket. It is slightly sweet while still residing on the tart end of the scale.
There is an array of flavorful bar snacks that you can indulge in while enjoying the vista that is the upper Congress Street/Washington Avenue vibe. Don’t forget to say “Hi,” to Isaac, the mind behind the place.
PARTY-CENTRIC: The Porthole Restaurant and Pub, 20 Custom House Wharf, Portland
The sign says, “Once seated, you gonna have to wait 45 minutes for your food.” For locals, it is the price we pay for living in a tourist town. For our out-of-town guests, there is a tendency to hop on the YELP button and cry often and loud.
Frankly, it is all worth it. The food is authentic Maine pub fare at reasonable prices. Their pub grub is classic, their music is loud, and their wine list is small but ridiculously cheap. So much so that the bottle or two you ordered can either go in the trunk of your car alongside you, or in the trunk of that UBER ride that would be a much better idea.
Sonoma Cutrer “Russian River” Chardonnay, $40.00 bottle.
Elegance with superior style even if drinking it while wearing your flip flops.
La Crema Chardonnay, $10.00 glass.
So, what, if it’s in a plastic cup? Just don’t spill it while you are dancing. Lots of flavor here with an abundance of oak in the finish. Lobster roll fare.
Stephen Vincent Pinot Noir, California, $8.00 glass.
Tasty little mid-range pinot with their Cajun haddock fish tacos.
Argyle Pinot Noir, Oregon, $40.00 bottle.
This classic lovely from one of the early and great wineries in the famed Willamette Valley is what you sip and contemplate. The cherry, mushroom, raspberry, and violet nuances are all there, to be savored, especially when the band is on break. Have with Tournedos Rockport, it rocks.
Here you have us in three local wine lists. A little look at our styles, together with a slice of who we are.
Layne has been a professional in the wine business for many decades as a teacher, importer, writer, competition judge, and winery CEO. He was awarded the Master Knight of the Vine for his pioneering work in the Oregon wine industry.
Read more of his posts here.
Or visit his blog at http://winemaniacs.wordpress.com/blog.
