Layne’s Wine Gig Presents
THE REAL DEAL: CIDER
By Layne V. Witherell
I enjoy being around cider makers. The wine biz has become bougie, desperate, and pretentious. Their reps would sell out for yet another placement of “Happy Mommy Wines” or flavored concoctions “like a convenience store had a branding meeting” (Sierra Wine Guy).
Meanwhile, cider people are thinking and experimenting in their orchards, tasting, creating, and thinking about the future. Wineries are pretending to be junior executives using AI and ad agencies to both clutch pearls and generate sales by genuflecting with their corporate prayer beads. Wine is becoming a mere product and a fading product at that.
We were invited again this year to participate in CiderFeast on May 2nd at Oxbow Brewingat 49 Washington Avenue in Portland. What a magnificent group. All growers and makers. Wine reps should show up, take notes, and see how it is done. Best $35.00 you will ever spend.
Sure, there is flannel here, lots of flannel, but more importantly there is a total lack of wine biz pretention. It is a room full of creators with vision and soul.
Jared Carr, Cider Maker & Orchardist: Cornish Cider Interview
Jared Carr is experimenting with a new pear and apple universe. My favorite word in cider world is “heterozygous”. The seed planted offspring are different from their parents, hence 7,500 or so apple types versus 1,250 or so grape varieties. A tree planted from a scion will produce the same offspring. Lots to play with here when those seeds hit the ground.
LAYNE: Who is your audience?
JARED: We aren’t out looking at demographics but are experimenting with flavors and apple types. Pears are entering into our thoughts as an apple/pear combo will result in the same alcohol as a high-quality wine. We are looking at breeding cultivars that produce the best off dry flavorful cider.
LAYNE: What is your biggest concern as a cidermaker?
JARED: In Maine, of course it is the hard winter weather and voracious deer. We are working on cultivars that are both winter hearty and not attractive to the deer population. You must put all the pieces together as an orchardist.
LAYNE: What is your biggest disappointment?
JARED: I guess it has to be iced cider. Restaurants are cutting down on desserts and dessert wines. Too much work for too little interest. Rose cider is becoming a thing, and it looks to have a bright future both in the orchard and on people’s tables.
LAYNE: Damn, another reason to blame Ozempic.
CORNISH CIDERS
135 High Road, Cornish, Maine
PAPER CUTTER: High sugars resulted in 10% alcohol semi-sweet cider.
COMMON FRUIT: Wild yeast, wild seedling, heirloom varieties, 7.6% alcohol. A classic traditional dry cider.
Go to their website for a list of the numerous stores throughout Maine that carry their excellent ciders.
E. Mathias Kamin, 3rd Forager & Cider Maker: Bon Vent Cider, Hancock, Maine
If anyone is bringing back that old time cider religion that is the world of wild apples, it is their Lamoine, Maine Cider, featuring 1830’s planted orchard, salt air foraging, and natural yeast ferments (they are there in the bottom of the bottle). A “Pet Nat” cider, if you will. Weighing in at 7.4% alcohol with partial fermentation occurring in the bottle.
Disgorged with bottles labeled by hand moments before CiderFeast, below is my favorite photo of all time. The folks at Bon Vent Cider are the real deal.
I want desperately to visit this place. “Champagne and Cava don’t have the same impact on a special occasion that local sparkling cider could,” said co-owner Annie Bryant. Live music from old timey bands can be found in their tasting room, which is a former antique shop at 684 Route 1.
Pick your day and the vibe. BYOF (bring your own food). I would haul a Pizza Villa Garlic Chicken Pizza from their intergalactic headquarters at 940 Congress Street on the West End in an insulated container to keep it warm. FYI, “Bon Vent” means “fair wind” or “safe travels” in French.
Hancock, Maine is roughly a two-and-a-half-hour drive. I would check their hours and music, but the drive this time of the year should be a delight.
Bon Vent Cider
684 US Route 1, Hancock, Maine
Spring days and hours are Wednesday through Friday, 1 – 9 p.m. Saturday open from 11 a.m. – 9 p.m. and Sunday from 12 – 8 p.m. I recommend calling ahead for their schedules and releases: (207)- 422-0025. You can bring your pets.
FYI: Hancock, Maine was named after the famous Declaration of Independence signer John Hancock. Lately, the most recent famous person from Hancock is Jordon Isabella Roosevelt Hudson (BA. Philosophy, Bridgewater State University). So, you didn’t think that Philosophy degree would pay off? Jordon is the recent partner of the legendary football coach Bill Belichick. The story of that one alone is well worth the drive.
Many thanks to organizer Jimmy Carbone of jimmyspotsandpans@gmail.com and Oxbow Brewing and Bottling for an ideal locale. And special thanks to all the “Real Deal” cider makers and foragers who make this a great event.
Layne’s Wine Gig
I can create individual wine (or cider) tastings for your groups. Name the place and time and I will provide the fun. Email me at lvwitherell@gmail.com.
