Layne’s Wine Gig Presents
CiderFeast
By Layne V. Witherell
Judy and I were recently invited to interview a “cider guru” at this year’s CiderFeast held at Oxbow on Washington Avenue in Portland.
I started by picking out my best flannel shirt to wear, as these are the cider people after all. Then Judy and I perused the list of over a dozen high quality cider producers. We settled on an interview with Zack Kaiser, Cider Master of Absolem in Winthrop, Maine.
Absolem is aptly named after the caterpillar in Alice and Wonderland. I call their work “craft cider 2.0”. Cider is doing just fine as a beverage in the alcohol world, except for the fact that it must chase natural wine, low ABV (alcohol by volume) wine, beer, seltzer, and any number of new creations on the market. It must both differentiate itself and reinvent itself. A mighty task.
Cider exists under numerous incarnations, including the commercial (think Angry Orchard), the purists (Citizen Cider), the feral (Aaron Burr), and the far out (Anyone flavoring with nettles?). For us the quest was for what we refer to as cider 2.0, or co-ferments with grapes in traditionally winemaking vessels bringing it closer to wine.
Interview with Zack Kaiser, Cider Master at Absolem (Winthrop, ME)
Layne & Judy (L& J): Where are you going with all this?
Zack (Z): We are headed in a variety of directions with the result being the best quality. We are experimenting, using everything from ancient Amphora fermentation to Fuder, German barrels for oak flavors. We are running the gamut of cider with everything from the approachable every day to esoteric. Big heavy Champagne bottles to cider on draft for the pubs and restaurants.
L& J: You seem to favor co-mingle and co-fermenting grapes with apples to create something new and different.
Z: My two partners and I come from very extensive wine and beer backgrounds. I moved from Baltimore to Winthrop, Maine and brought with me ideas of everything from ice cider (made from frozen apples) to Vermouth and beyond.
L & J: Who is your market?
Z: We aren’t chasing demographics but change things up based on what we feel the mood is and what nature gives us. We still want to be price accessible and focused on what we do best, whether it’s large Champagne bottled specialty ciders or a house tap at your local restaurant.
The Ciders at Absolem
Cosmic Drama: A co-ferment of lowbush blueberries, organic blackberries, and grapes. A place where wine and cider meet. 8.5% ABV. The classic definition of cider 2.0. Cider can be a tad bit fruity and light, while this wine and cider combo is the definition of modern fruit. (750 ml. bottle)
Groundwork Harvest Moon: Single varietal – Northern Spy – with a crisp bubbly character. With the Northern Spy apple, a classic cider heirloom varietal, you are entering into an entirely different world from Cosmic Drama. They are funk personified and could be vintage dated except the government won’t allow it. You could do a lot number instead. The apple is named after a pulp novel of the 1830’s, an underground railroad kind of thing. (750 ml. bottle)
Aplomb: A blend of apples, peaches, plums, and Frontenac grapes. Frontenac is a hybrid grape that was created in the 1970’s for its ability to withstand cold climes. Frankly, it isn’t much of a quality varietal but as a cider co-ferment all the flavors pop. The combo of apples, fruit, and wine at around 8.5% ABV is as exciting for cider as it is for us.
FYI: It is worth a trip to this place to experience, in addition to their house made offerings, their amazing cider, beer, cocktail, and wine list. Judy is a cocktail maven, and I have written more than my share of wine lists, and we can say this list is well worth your trip. Find them at 799 Winthrop Center Road, Winthrop, Maine.
Closer to Home
Freedom’s Edge (Portland,ME)
REDFIELD CIDER: Since we are looking at and tasting ciders that are clearly into wine territory, this is a prime candidate. The Redfield is a single varietal apple which spends three or so years in a Port barrel that produces an “oaky and buttery” cider. This is a perfect complement to cider 2.0.
NO NAME CIDER: With Co-Owner Andy Kaplan pouring along with his General Sales Manager extraordinaire Leon, you knew there would be a ringer hidden under the table. They dragged out a 750ml bottle that had been stashed away pre-pandemic and poured it for us. It was both fruity and a tad funky, but like a well-stored bottle of wine it had developed vastly additional character. So, cider doesn’t age, huh? This is proof that it does.
Do visit their tasting room in Portland at 31 Diamond Street. I can’t promise that an ancient bottle will make a guest appearance. But their cider, ambiance, and food are well worth the short drive.
And don’t forget to check out the stunning apple tree mural by local artist Pat Corrigan.
Farther Afield
Fogtown Brewing (Ellsworth, ME)
If you have just graduated from art school or are looking at starting a brewery, this is your introduction in both style and graphics (lawyers and accountants are extra). Check this place out. It ranks as an ultimate brew, cider, and creative experience. The people here are having far too much fun with beer names like Disco Eclipse, Stud Wall, Night Nurse, and Aqua Culture (with the best oyster shell label). They brought no less than a half dozen ciders to CiderFeast. Each was different, and each was to our thoughts a hit.
Maine Pommeau: Black Oxford, Winesap, and Wickson apples fermented in French Oak barrels and boosted – and I mean boosted – to 20% ABV with a healthy dose of grain alcohol. A seasonal offering, because after a couple of glasses of this you may need a little while to recover. Calvados, anyone?
Downeast Heritage Pet Nat: This is an extraordinarily hipster way of making wine with partial fermentation occurring in the bottle before your very eyes. In addition, it is composed of feral and forgotten fruits that were hand-pressed in their beer garden! It doesn’t get more feral or funky than this in the cider world.
Fat Apple: The last of their lineup. A classic modern cider 2.0 rendition. Apples co-fermented with white grapes (of an indeterminant type), aged in American white oak Fuder barrels, a European wine classic.
Shout Outs
Special thanks to Zack Kaiser of Absolem for the interview.
Jimmy Carbone of Jimmy Pots and Pans (I am not making this up) for taking CiderFeast on the road.
Oxbow Brewing and Bottling on Washington Avenue, Portland, for allowing a whole bunch of “cider heads” to take over.
And to all those moms who received this event as a special Mother’s Day treat.
AND THERE’S MORE
Apres at 148 Anderson Street, Portland, is hosting their own BAY CIDER FEST on Saturday, June 7th, featuring many of the same cast of characters. Tickets are $35 with VIP at $50. Call (207) 613-8231 for additional information.
LAYNE’S WINE GIGS
I am adding individual, private, or group tastings in 2025. Wine author, journalist, knowledgeable guy. You pick the subject, place, and theme. I will provide the fun. E-mail me at lvwitherell@gmail.com for availability.
