By Nancy Dorrans
Patagonia is the most magical place on our planet that I’ve ever had the honor to experience. If you read my article last month you know my adventure was epic and life changing. There was so much more I needed to share… Come with me to relive my adventure and perhaps join me on another in the new year…
And so, my ten-day Patagonia adventure began…
Arriving in Puerto Natales, I was first awestruck by the scenery and then by the sounds of local music, dance, and the most cheerful welcome by the ATTA (Adventure Travel Trade Association) team and our local hosts from Chile Nativo Travel!
Toasting our new friends with our first Pisco Sour (the Chilean cocktail made from grape brandy), we gathered the luggage, met our guides and fellow W-Trek adventure travelers for the next six days, jumped in the van and vamos, we go!
After about two hours we arrived at Torres del Paine National Park. We were full of anticipation. Upon arrival at the Hotel Lago Grey, we had to quickly open our luggage (in the lobby) and pack our backpacks, keeping only what we needed and could carry for the next six days.The rest would be waiting for us at the end of our pre-adventure. I’ll remind you that it was early September and still winter there. Layers, layers, layers were key. Our guides helped us decide what to bring and what to leave.
The anticipation grew as our group bonded and dined on a feast of roasted lamb, seafood, and wine. The next three nights we’d be camping… Did I mention it was still winter there?
Kayaking to the Glacier
Our W-Trek started on a clear and chilly day, with a delicious breakfast before heading out to walk along Grey Beach to board the ferry for a one way 45-minute ride across Lago Grey. Bundled up and sipping another courtesy Pisco Sour, we passed floating blue icebergs and had spectacular views of the snowy peaks and forest that border the lake. Dropped at the base of Grey Glacier we arrived at Camp Grey. There was frost on the tents.
After a packed lunch, we headed down to the beach to prepare for a kayak excursion alongside floating icebergs with Big Foot Adventures. (Patagonia means “land of the bigfoot”!) It was a bit of a challenge squeezing into the neoprene suits, the waterproof jackets and boots, poogies (kayak gloves), skirt, and lifejacket but we managed!
We partnered up in tandem kayaks and after a short safety briefing took off on a mesmerizing afternoon paddle towards the giant ice wall of the glacier. The guides brought along hot tea and we toasted the moment!
Back to our camp we had a happy hour toast as I shared the bottle of New England maple flavored whiskey I had brought along.
Hiking the Glacier
After a chilly night, we began our longest day. We headed back down to Big Foot Adventures for a morning ice hike on the Grey Glacier. We were fitted with crampons and harnesses and given pickaxes. A zodiac carried us to the shore access to climb on the millennial ice.
Back on the zodiac to camp, we had a late lunch, collected our packs, and headed out to Camp Paine Grande. So that’s one five-hour morning ice hiking excursion and a very windy nine-mile hike that ended in the dark with headlamps. The night before had been cold. This night it was the wind – shaking the tents and sounding like a freight train all night!
We all awoke bleary eyed and headed towards the French Valley, a spectacular natural basin surrounded by peaks and hanging glaciers. The overnight forecast was for cold rain and wind but the weather gods were on our side. We were expecting to sleep in tents again but because we were the first group of the season to arrive at Camp Frances, the staff had prepared and opened their dome accommodations for us. With hot showers and wood stoves, we were elated. It poured overnight but we were warm and dry in the domes and awoke to a rainbow!
The fifth day we hiked another ten miles along the shores of glacial lakes, past waterfalls with “endless views” to arrive at the welcoming Hotel Las Torres.
Granite Peaks & Waterfalls in Patagonia
On the final day of our pre-adventure, we were to hike in and stand before the Torres Del Paine, the distinctive and breathtaking three granite peaks of the Paine mountain range. A few of us turned around at the first viewpoint and took a driving tour to view the towers from the waterfall Cascada del Rio Paine.
With a rousting gaucho “Adios,” we headed out to begin the ATTA conference… But not before one more Day of Adventure! How far out of your comfort zone can you go? Take a brand new $3000 e-bike on a muddy, slippery, narrow, rocky, supposedly moderate trail and follow several adventurous more experienced, bigger, and younger mountain bikers! That was my “Day of Adventure”. It was pretty far out, and I survived!
After the life changing W-trek pre-adventure and the epic e-bike Day of Adventure, there were two incredible days of ATTA networking, speakers, and workshops at Río Serrano Hotel and Spa. Chile celebrates their independence on September 18th, and we started the party a few days early. With amazing food, new friends, wine, conversations and dancing, the celebration lasted well into the night!
Would you like to hear more of the stories and join me in Patagonia early in the new year? Let me know. I’m eager to get back! Chi-Chi-Chi | Le-Le-Le | VIVA Chile!
Nancy Dorrans is a professional travel expert and founded Adventure Marketplace in 2014.
