Faux Snowbirds Search Out Amazing Food & Wine Pairings in New Orleans

Layne’s Wine Gig Presents

FAUX SNOWBIRDS IN NEW ORLEANS

By Layne V. Witherell

In the depth of winter there are three distinguishable types of people in Maine. There are the “true Mainers”: the type who are here come hell or frozen pipes, in it for the good or not so good long haul. The second group are the “temperature is going below 50 degrees today” types, and they are gone for half a year as non-residents, a.k.a. the “snowbirds.” There is a distinct third group that I have named the “faux snowbirds.” They live here, pay all their taxes, but hike it out for a while during the pipe freezing season – usually one to two weeks out of winter. That is us. We choose Mardi Gras in New Orleans for the warmth, food, deliriously nice wines, combined with the ability to really dress up.

Since we have been to New Orleans numerous times, and have our faves, we go on a little eating and imbibing journey – just Judy and me.

ANTOINES RESTAURANT, 713 Rue Saint Louis, New Orleans, LA, (504) 581-4422

Yeah, we know, they are the oldest operating family-owned restaurant in the US, but that’s not why we go there. The lunch still offers charbroiled oysters- a treat – and creole shrimp, and a delicious fish amandine, all combined with decades-long perfected service in a 19th Century setting.

No, we like this place for its surprises. The 25-cent cocktail (limit three) is gone but they offer a bottomless rose from Raeburn Russian River Valley, 2019, that will change your mind if you are getting bored with Provence rose (as I know someday you will). It has character, flavor of place, and is a brilliant choice with their creole cuisine. At $18.00 each, we clearly got our money’s worth and then some.

The real surprise with Antoine’s is always the memorabilia in the countless banquet rooms scattered throughout. There was a menu from the “Escargot Society” from 1945 that blew me away as a rewrite of California wine history. Mr. Rick Blount, the CEO of the restaurant sent an e-mail taking me inside the workings of this group. They are twelve serious food and wine connoisseurs who sign on for a lifelong ride featuring three to four lavish dinners yearly. The menu featured a Wente Winery white appearing a full two decades before Robert Mondavi’s Fume Blanc introduction. We will explore my discoveries during the March 16th Wine Gig at Blue. The California Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon discovery is earlier than we think.

BACCHANAL FINE WINES AND SPIRITS, 600 Poland Ave., NOLA, (504) 948-9111

One of the world’s great backyards with accompanying fine wine, cheese platters, and music. The wine room is a temple of biodynamic selections and thoughts.

Our sensational cheese platter consisted of Cocuera 3-month Manchego, Moliterno with truffles, brie triple cream, and Don Juan Serrano. We jostled about over the wine selection as the staff know their stuff and are opinionated. I like that.

There it was. Eyrie Vineyards “Spark” Sparkling Rose, Willamette Valley, $45.00 bottle. This is the Eyrie Vineyards second generation strutting his stuff in a totally modern rendition of a “pet nat” with low carbonation and a tangy grip in flavor. Perfect with the cheese, the music, the backyard, and time with my wife, Judy. I remembered experiencing the tastes of the original 1970’s Eyrie Pinot Noirs that were revolutionary in America in their emphasis of elegance and grace.

R’EVOLUTION, 777 Bienville St., NOLA, (504) 553-2277

“The most important new restaurant to open here in the last fifty years,” from “Eat Dat” by Michael Murphy.

They weren’t kidding. It has the look and the feel, the second you enter and gaze over at the mahogany and glass display opulence in the bar. The cocktail list is serious in its complexity.

They are famous for a wine list of magnitude (look it up!). I usually spend many hours on their website, off and on, boiling it down to five or so wines that I can’t find anywhere else – and can afford. They revel in must have dishes, of course, such as the Death by Gumbo, a startlingly rich sauce with a whole stuffed quail in the center as their signature dish. It can be accompanied by their quail three ways for added layers of flavor.

The wine: Domaine Newman Beaune 1er Cru “Clos Des Avaux,” 2017, $120.00. Lest you fall into shock, I have been chasing that wine for thirty plus years. Robert Newman was a New Orleans banker who bought little slivers of great Burgundy vineyards after WW2. The vineyard is a miniscule four plus acres, and the wine is sold only in New Orleans. We found it only at R’evolution on their list. So… how was it?

SPECTACULAR!! Older style Burgundies, the stuff made in the 60’s and 70’s before overproduction and global greed set in, are masterpieces of flavors of unique places. “Something about Burgundy excites spirituality,” said Matt Kramer. It had a layer of currents, cranberries, truffles, and the most delirious flavor of mushrooms in a single glass. Expertly served and accompanied with the dish. They don’t call it “Death by Gumbo” for nothing. Put this place on your bucket list.

COMMANDER’S PALACE, 1403 Washington Ave., NOLA, (504) 899-8221

Iconic. Even if it turned into a dump and the food was lousy, you would go here for the service alone. “You will never have better service. Anywhere,” noted “Eat Dat” by Michael Murphy.

But the place is great, as is the food. AND they treat everyone like a rock star. We went to the Jazz Brunch this visit and it was roaringly New Orleans. While Antoine’s is classic, Bacchanal is pure glorious hipster, R’evolution is just sitting back for the opulent ride and forgetting your budget, and Commander’s is like home.

There is always the perfect wine for the dish. Commander’s Turtle Soup au Sherry at $12.00 is worth the visit to the city by itself. We just stumbled onto an old favorite on their wine list Charles K. Smith Boom Boom Syrah and paired it with the soup, at $10.00 a glass. His Syrah with its touch of herbs, jam, and meat, and a softness to glide alongside the turtle soup for a glorious ride.

Remember, Be Yourself

We tasted a lot more wines at small restaurants and wine bars in New Orleans, but these were the highlights. The one rule of traveling is to go for the adventure, and if any of the wines that you had are available when you return locally – then fine. If not, just move on and find new stuff. I make a list of one or two to search for, but the rest just appear. That is part of the fun.

This was a serious gourmet outing. One that you may or may not take. The only rule about food and wine pairings is to be yourself and don’t be afraid to take a step out of your comfort zone. That slice of pizza with a glass of six dollar a bottle Montepulciano de Abruzzo on a Tuesday night at home may be as comforting and fulfilling as anything we experienced in New Orleans.

The one wine that is available locally is Boom Boom. I liked it so much that we will try to include it in Layne’s Wine Gig at Blue on March 16th. Usually, I make it a point to never taste the evening’s wines prior to going on stage (the audience has more fun that way), but this wine was compelling.

Layne’s Wine Gig – Every thirsty 3rd Thursday

You can catch Layne every third Thursday at Blue, 650 Congress Street, in Portland, Maine. Layne’s Wine Gig runs from 5 to 6 pm. This is an unpretentious wine tasting guided by a guy who has seen it all, done it all, and still has a rollicking good time!