Layne’s Wine Gig Presents
ASTONISHING WINES
By Layne V. Witherell
I suppose the word “serendipitous” is an apt description for the wines of this month. But if spellcheck wasn’t on for a title like that, it would require a frantic call to Judy and Tony. Let’s leave it at “astonishing” and go from there…
CONG TU BOT, 57 Washington Ave, Thu-Mon, 5-9p
This marks our third visit in as many years. Visit #1: We were crushed in the tiniest entryway and equally so at the bar. After all, they had just made it on to “The Most ADORABLE New Place in Portland” list. (Are you listening, Bar Futo?)
Visit #2: Takeout with four smallish tables outside– a la Covid –with one being inhabited by a photographer with way too much gear. He inquired if I wanted my picture taken. For what? Why, The New York Times, of course. I passed on that one. There is a bit too much of that in Portland.
Visit #3: Inside reservations with the same astonishing food, additional leg room, ample table room, and a wine list containing that rarity of rarities: some wonderful $30-ish bottles of wine. They are way cool in their “Bazzini Quality Nuts” wine chiller.
Pipeno Rogue Vines Bianco, Chile, $33.00 a bottle
This was a crisp, delightful, dry, balanced white that went beautifully with their twice cooked eggplant and Chao Chay Congee (two orders, please). The vineyard was a field blend planted from 1930-1950 and is composed of 50% Semillon, 45% Chasselas, and 5% Moscatel. The Semillon has a delightful lanolin finish, rounded off by the soothing neutrality of the Chasselas and added roundness of the Moscatel. Try a blind tasting figuring those grapes out. Future sommeliers take note: don’t be too pretentious, there may be a “Bazzini Quality Nuts” can in your future.
ROMA CAFÉ, 769 Congress St, 7 days a week, 5-9p
New Year’s Eve dinner. Chef Sid’s delicious fresh scallops for her and lobster ravioli for me. Savored and nicely accompanied with a bottle of…
Suavia Soave Classico, 2020, $50.00 bottle
A bit pricey for a Soave, but the flavor combo of pear, almonds, and herbs that make up its complexity is special. The Garganega grape is quiet, not loud and boisterous, in a glass. This wine was way beyond expectations for traditional Soave. Always look for the word “Classico” as it is at the center of the region, and hence at its highest quality.
The sad news is that Suavia’s Winery website says they are permanently closed. There are better Soaves for more money and certainly lots at considerably less, but Suavia was a wonderful, serendipitous find.
As a proud resident of the West End, I enjoy getting our same table, waitperson, bartender, manager, and all the ambience that makes the place special and “local.”
CARDS AGAINST HUMANITY, Our friend’s house in SoPo
You must have lots of wine on the table and be surrounded by friends who, shall we say, are open-minded to play this uninhibited game. Best wine of the night was…
Chinon “Les Picasses” by Olga Riffault, 2016, $24.00 retail
This is Olga’s most rambunctious single old vine vineyard bottling (as fits the game). There aren’t enough cabernet franc bottlings around. Most tumble into multi-grape blends and lose that fierce, fruity herbal, sweet spice with a side of leather that characterizes the uniqueness of cabernet franc and a well-grown Chinon like Olga’s. The Loire Valley in France is the home of many towns, each featuring their own unique set of grapes and flavor delights.
Caution: ‘Vielles Vignes’ on a Wine Label
A cautionary word on buying “Vielles Vignes” or the words “old vines” on a wine label. There are remarkable wines from old vines. They make a difference as the roots penetrate deep into the ground and produce a far lower yield, and hence better-quality fruit. BUT there is no law regarding what constitutes an actual old vine vineyard. Don’t trust anyone but the respected wine producers themselves. It can appear on a retailer’s shelf, a wine list in a restaurant, or a sales rep’s hands. Only when it is real is it real. Perfect having this wine while playing Cards Against Humanity.
OH NO CAFE, 87 Brackett St, Tue-Sat, 7a-2p
Co-owners Lori and Chris serve up some very tasty food for West Enders, but on select Thursday evenings they do brilliantly (dare I say my most despised word) curated wine tastings. Four wines averaging around $25.00 a bottle retail presented intelligently and devoid of the usual rep winetasting clap trap. In other words, they aren’t run of the mill wines, nor are they overpriced and precious. They serve them up just like those “hangover sandwiches” with just enough meat and garnish – just right. These are “pop up” tastings via e-mail or their website.
Cour Cheverny “Vielles Vignes” Benoit Daridan, 2018, $24.00 retail
This wine is produced in a tiny hamlet of 1,750 souls in the ancient Touraine region of the Loire Valley in France. And it is obscure. Really obscure. The grape is Romarantin, and that’s it. Nothing else is planted in this 100-acre region. Romarantin arrived here in 1519 courtesy of Francois 1st from places unknown. This is it. This is its only home. And yes, there is that “old vine” tension of flavor. And 2018 is steely, viscous, bone dry, with “notes of sea breeze, chalk, stones,” and tasting of a fine Chablis or Macon or Pouilly Fuisse from Burgundy.
There is a problem here…
The real reason that I adore this wine is that there is a problem here. When checking the prices of various Burgundy producers, one encounters never seen sticker shock – and it will get much worse. The crops are small and worldwide thirst (though lust is an equally apt word) is growing. Value and astonishing: two words that should occasionally occur in the same sentence.
Chablis weighs in at $40.00 a bottle and single grower Macon can reach $40.00 with Pouilly Fuisse running $70.00-$100.00 a bottle. These are good wines, not GREAT wines. I will take this terrific Burgundy lookalike at one third to half the price anytime.
I take my hat off and thank Chris and Lori for the search, as well as the tiny distributor Hart & Harp Wines for opening their astonishing world so that we can gleefully drink up and enjoy.
E-mail OhNo Café to get on their list for their Thursday tastings. You won’t be disappointed.
Layne’s Wine Gig – Every thirsty 3rd Thursday
You can catch Layne every third Thursday at Blue, 650 Congress Street, in Portland, Maine. Layne’s Wine Gig runs from 5 to 6 pm. This is an unpretentious wine tasting guided by a guy who has seen it all, done it all, and still has a rollicking good time!
