Layne’s Wine Gig Presents
LOBSTER LOVE
By Layne V. Witherell
As a kid growing up in 1960’s Los Angeles I knew of the glories of tacos, burritos, and the cult food destination that is Pink’s Chili Dogs. It wasn’t until I joined the Navy and volunteered to serve on an ancient, battle-worn diesel submarine that I had my first experience with what I call Lobster Love.
I wrote to Mom often. Even then I had a quirky style. Navy duty was rough. Your world was a cramped, barely habitable shell that enveloped you in both diesel fuel and battery acid. Home was a bunk you couldn’t turn over in and a “locker” that held several books and your toothbrush – that’s it. This was not about creature comfort. It was a machine built for war. Here is a letter to Mom about it:
Friday, October 1,1966
Dear Mom:
Have been “mess cooking” (washing dishes) for the past week. Ran into a little rough weather – it ran into us… impossible to tell whether surfaced or underwater without looking at the gauges. Friday fresh lobster day – one bit me, I know.* Have duty this weekend. Will be washing dishes and sleeping.
*These were the freshly unbanded claws that my younger self was referring to.
LOBSTER DAY
Lobster day was my first experience savoring my soon to be favorite crustation. For those brief, glorious moments, the rough seas, cramped quarters, and diesel fuel vanished completely. They were delivered live, fresh from the boat to the pier we were tied to. This was an unforgettable, enduring experience of culinary bliss.
After four years serving my country and another four in college, I headed off for my decades long gypsy life called the wine business. In the ’70’s, as opposed to now, there were no twinkling sommeliers on Instagram. Just us.
Lobster Love really reappeared when I met Judy, my Mainer, and discovered this place called Maine. We married in 1996 and settled in Portland in 2006.
As a wine writer, local diner, food writer, husband, and lover of Maine, lobster is part of life. It isn’t just part of our lifestyle – it IS our lifestyle. We celebrate the whole gamut of occasions, weekends, and the seasons with lobster. So, I will write from experience…
LOBSTER SHACK AT TWO LIGHTS
225 Two Lights Road, Cape Elizabeth, ME
12-8 pm daily (seasonal)
View… BYOB… Deliciousness. Arrive early, opens at noon. We grab an outside table. The season in Maine doesn’t get any better than this. I was once cheeky enough to ask where they got their lobster, and they gave me the name of their specific person! That’s authentic.
Bring your best white wine (Sonoma Cutrer Russian River Ranches was our latest choice), to revel in the view, lobster, and experience. Solo cups are perfectly okay. Your best stemware only if your glasses are well wrapped. Glorious Maine with a lighthouse, rocky coast, and a view of the boat bringing your lunch to shore.
McLOONS LOBSTER SHACK
315 Island Road, South Thomaston, ME
Thurs. – Sun. 11:30 am-7 pm (seasonal)
BYOB your cold Allagash White Ale.
“I was there to see the end of the traditional people,” sang Bob Dylan.
McLoons is absolutely startling in two ways. There are the traditional working people on their lobster boats going into the morning mist of the bay dressed in their head-to-toe slickers. An unforgettable site. The other unforgettable site is our car in the parking lot bearing the only Maine license plate, while Judy and I take in the majesty amidst a group of cell phone gawkers who are totally unconscious of this iconic Maine place. The motto here could be: “Get a clue, before it’s gone.”
Of course, the lobster roll is great (and offered in a standard and double size). But do yourself a favor and try the lobster stew.
PORTLAND LOBSTER COMPANY
180 Commercial Street, Portland, ME
11-10 pm daily (seasonal)
Our Sunday hang. Great lobster rolls, dinner, specials. Pretty much your one stop shop intro to all things us. But wait! There is music, great original and cover bar band style music (are you listening, Gina?).
Too many people (I hate to say tourists, but I will), have a beer and move on. To where, I don’t ask. The entire afternoon is a musical marathon and an early evening nap worthy experience. Our perfect Portland on a Sunday afternoon.
They have seltzers, Maine craft cocktails, local craft beer, and a by the bottle and glass wine selection that is small but worthy of your attention. Cakebread Napa Cellars Chardonnay at $14.00 a glass (wow, served in a plastic cup) if you are feeling plush. Columbia Crest by the bottle at $32.00 for a good deal.
Portland Lobster Company is our vibe.
THE RAMP BAR & GRILL
77 Pier Road (located inside Pier 77), Kennebunkport, ME
Open Mon, Tue & Thu 11:30 am – 9 pm. Fri-Sat 11:30 am – 8 pm. Sun 11:30 am – 9 pm. Closed Wed. (I am not making this up.)
We like the small courtyard overlooking the cove with the totally oversized pile of lobster buoys. There are more pieces from the depths of the ocean on the wall here per square foot than can be counted or imagined. As the little boats sail by, just sit back and relax.
The lobster roll is more like a lobster salad plopped atop a bun, meant to be savored alongside the (OMG Kennebunkport!) wine pricing. The view and the food are worth the price of admission. Okay, just suck up the wine prices.
But there is more. If you are of a certain age, the bathroom contains a sacred relic from another era. There it is – a wooden framed Patricia (Patty) Hearst F.B.I. wanted poster circa 1974. Ah, the good old days. A multimillionaire heiress brainwashed into being a bank robber.
We show up early for each place, as over the years, we have favorite tables for the vibe and views we love.
BECKY’S DINER
390 Commercial St., Portland, ME
6 am – 9 pm daily
This rounds us full circle to Lobster Love. Sure, Becky’s is a local landmark for those near and far, but there is a yearly event that is near and dear to my heart. Every Veteran’s Day they do a special discount to honor the troops. Last year I ordered the lobster omelet and expected it to be pretty good.
My waitress came over and smiled asking, “What do you think?” My mind went back decades to the 21-year-old kid, fresh out of LA, and his first Lobster Love, and especially to my lovely Mainer wife who introduced me to this enchanted land.
She chuckled and expressed a heartfelt, “Thank you for your service. We put extra lobster in because you gave so much for your country. We want to thank you for all you did for us.”
Thank you, Judy, my loving wife and thank you Maine for letting us live the glorious Lobster Love that is a big part of our life.
There are so many other great spots highlighting our favorite, delicious crustacean that we enjoy visiting: J’s Oyster, Boones, Luke’s Lobster, Highroller, The Porthole, Eventide, and more! Show them your support and most importantly keep up the Lobster Love.
Layne has been a professional in the wine business for many decades as a teacher, importer, writer, competition judge, and winery CEO. He was awarded the Master Knight of the Vine for his pioneering work in the Oregon wine industry. He can be reached at lvwitherell@gmail.com.
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