By Nancy Dorrans
The US Chefs’ Ski club, based out of Hunter Mountain, New York, has been celebrating good food and skiing for 50 years. Last fall I met Daniela Marino-Goldberg at a travel trade event in Quebec. She is a long time member of the club and serves as their group travel coordinator. A casual “hello” to a stranger in line for appetizers led to an engaging conversation and an invite to join her and her club members for skiing the Dolomites. And so it began… A casual hello and I’m on my way to ski with the chefs in Italy!
TWA Time Machine
After a quick flight from the Jetport to JFK, I had a six hour layover before my flight to Milan. What to do with so much time? I rechecked my bags and meandered over to the original TWA Terminal, now cleverly repurposed as the TWA Flight Center and Hotel complex. Walking into the lobby was like a time machine. I was transported back to the styles, music, and vibe of air travel in the sixties. There was a display of vintage flight attendant uniforms, a twister room, beauty parlor, several bars, a timeline mural, and a working 10c pay phone!
I followed the arrows to “Connie,” which is a 1958 Lockheed Constellation airplane turned into a vintage cocktail lounge. This aircraft has a connection to Maine. Turns out, she was rescued from demolition in 1986 by Maurice Roundy, the owner of Maine Coast Airways. You can read more about her intriguing history at https://www.twahotel.com/connie-airplane/connies-history.
I spent some time in Connie’s lounge with a glass of Pinot Grigio and some fellow time travelers. I love it when I have time for spontaneous moments with strangers!
As I boarded flight to Milan, I was on vacation, though technically also doing “research” for European group ski trips. In Milan, I mingled with a few of the club members while we collected our luggage. One of the women in the group had misplaced her passport somewhere between the plane and customs. I was sorry for her but glad to not be in charge of anything or anyone except myself, my passport, and my luggage.
On the way to the Dolomites
We settled onto the coach for the seven-hour ride past Lake Garda to the Dolomites… About half way there, weary and a tad hungry, we poured off the coach into a rest stop. We were in Italy, on our way to the mountains, and it was 60 degrees and sunny. Would we find snow? We didn’t know but I did find the first of many delicious Italian dishes – a fresh “Bus Stop” burrata and tomato salad with basil! Yum!
Next morning I was introduced to Michel Rossignol, renowned pastry chef and good skier. Along with Michel and a few others, we formed the “Dolomiti 7”. We spent that first day getting to know each other, the trails, and where to find lunch. I needed a nap before dinner.
Our five course dinners at the Olympia Hotel included a salad bar, appetizer, pasta course, main course with unique choices of boar or duck ragout, grilled foal (yes foal), salted pie (pork or beef?), speck (ham), veal, piadina, smoked pork “choppa,” polenta with chanterelle mushrooms… and more. Every night was different but always ended with amazing desserts including a special pastry or choice of fruit, yogurt, cheese and/or deliciouso gelato… Oh and many carafes of wine by the liter, charged to this room or that.
The Dolomiti 7+3
For six days we skied from Arabba Village in every direction, in every kind of weather: some new snow, some fog, sleet, some slush, and some bumps.
Just before lunch on day two, Antoinette wanted just one more run. Ingrid and I joined her. We took a lovely wooded trail and then discovered it led us away to another village. It took a while and a few lifts to get back to the restaurant where the men were saving us seats with a view! I was growing quite fond of the Dolomiti 7!!
The next day “Dolomiti 7 plus Ed, Steve and Paul” headed out. We were eager to complete the Sella Ronda, a circuit that covers four Dolomite passes through five villages. The total route is about 25 miles, requires taking 16 or 17 lifts and about 15 miles of skiing. We took our time. The views in and out of the clouds were incredible. At times the visibility (or lack there of) was the issue…
Day 5 was a long day of skiing in wind, sleet, new snow, and fog. It required riding two trams and walking through a tunnel. I was in my ski boots for over 8 hours. We started out along the Sella Ronda to Sassalungo (a World Cup run) then continued over and back to the Marmolada Glacier.
The most amazing hot chocolate added a much needed late afternoon boost…thanks Paul!
Day 6 was the last day skiing the Dolomites and the end to this most excellent adventure in Italy. I spent the day laughing and dining with my new friends from Hunter Mountain and beyond.
Arrivederci, Arabba and the Dolomites! My research went well. So, I’ll be back!
