By Nancy Dorrans
Quebec City, North America’s most European city, lived up to its charm and reputation as a city and people that embrace and celebrate winter in the coolest ways during Carnaval de Quebec!
For a period of ten days, Old Quebec is transformed into a snow festival with a variety of activities, such as ice and snow sculptures, the Palais de Bonhomme made completely of ice, no less than two night parades, canoe races, and musical evenings all in a stunningly beautiful setting. It’s the winter carnival and not to be missed.
Magical Adventures at Quebec Winter Carnival
This was my ninth year organizing and escorting a bus group to Quebec City to experience the Winter Carnival. Fortunately, our drive went smoothly, as we managed to dodge two snowstorms. We departed the day after one storm passed and returned the day after another had blanketed Portland in snow.
We arrived at the iconic Chateau Frontenac with time to settle in. Then, walked into history with the most knowledgeable guides from Cicerone Tours. They shared memorable anecdotes, while we admired the old buildings and proud monuments that lined the picturesque streets of Old Quebec. Our tours ended with a brief overview of the festival sites and ways to make our time in Quebec most enjoyable!
Something new and cool for me was the winter dining experience at the amazing Hôtel de Glace restaurant with food crafted by the chefs of the Fairmont Le Château Frontenac. My co-leader Shelli and I were shuttled from the Chateau to the Hôtel de Glace’s snow vaults, greeted with a welcome drink in an ice glass (of course), and seated at the glittering ice tables and benches.
Our Nordic-inspired meal was based on the four elements of air, earth, fire, and water. We kept our coats throughout the experience. It was a delicious and magical evening.
Later that evening we found and joined Bonhomme, who was dancing to the techno beat in the music tent next to his palace. And that was just the beginning…
Nancy’s Favorite Winter Carnival Activities
My favorite daytime activities include taking a walk or Funicular ride down to Couchon Dingue (Little Pig) for breakfast: avec coffee in a bowl, duck confit and a “sweet treat”!
A ferry ride across the frozen St. Lawrence to Levis for a breathtaking experience and great views of Quebec City and the Chateau. Strolling through the festival sites, a warm-up break at the Chateau pool and spa, a tour of the Hotel de Glace, attending the Carnaval Parade, and new this year, an included dinner at Côtes-à-Côtes Quebec restaurant.
Then there are the ice boat races, onion soups, maple everything, toboggan rides, Mary’s Popcorn shop, historic tours of the iconic Chateau Frontenac, local beer, and dinner at Le Buche – Oui, Oui!!
This year the temperature was about 50 degrees warmer than two years ago and was still in the low twenties! Next year we’ll be back, spending three nights at the Chateau from February 6th to 9th, 2026. Be sure to save the dates!
Excited for What’s Next…
Every year is familiar and different. There’s always something new to try. You may be tired of winter, but I’m not! March is a long month and often the best month for snow and skiing in New England and beyond. This winter was slow to start, but it is here now and I’m excited for what’s next.
It’s been over forty years since I last skied in Europe. Back then, I traveled to Schruns, Austria with a group of TWA employees for a week of skiing in the Montafon Valley. Schruns is a fairy tale mountain village where Ernest Hemingway skied and wrote the “Sun Also Rises.” It was yet another magical and delicious adventure with memories I hold dear.
I’ve been anxious to get back to Europe for a ski adventure ever since. This fall, I met a group tour organizer at a travel trade show. She organizes a ski trip each year for the US Chefs’ Ski Club out of Hunter Mountain, New York. This year they’re going to ski March 7th to 15th in Italy. She had an extra spot and invited me to join them to “familiarize myself with the Italian Dolomites” and meet some new skiing friends. How could I resist?
Ciao, Portland! I’ll have more adventures and stories to share next month!
